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One-step method: Sirk reverses traditional spinning process
At the end of 2011, the "One-step Different Shrinkage Mixed Fiber Industrialization Complete Technology and Application Project" was awarded the first prize for Science and Technology Progress by the China Textile Industry Federation. This groundbreaking technology marked a major innovation in the global chemical fiber industry, ushering in a new era of spinning techniques. As a result, the project’s main unit, Xuzhou Silke Fiber Technology Co., Ltd., gained significant attention within the textile sector.
Established in 2003, Jiangsu Serge Group was one of the first high-tech enterprises to respond to the Jiangsu Provincial Party Committee and Government's initiative to transfer industries to Northern Jiangsu. After nearly a decade of growth, the group now comprises nine companies, including its parent company, Jiangsu Serge Group Co., Ltd., as well as subsidiaries like Xuzhou Sergey Fiber Technology Co., Ltd. and Xuzhou Rongshengda Fiber Products Technology Co., Ltd. The group has an annual production capacity of 56,000 tons of different shrinkage composite yarn and 140 million meters of various textile and apparel fabrics.
Conquering One-Step Spinning Technology
Sun Derong, Chairman of Xuzhou Silke Fiber Technology Co., Ltd., emphasized that innovation is key to their success: “Only by continuously innovating can we lead the market.†This philosophy guided the company from its early days in the textile industry, driving it toward independent research and development that challenged traditional methods.
Traditionally, chemical fiber spinning involved a two-step process—spinning POY and FDY separately before combining them. However, this method led to low quality stability and limited product variety, making it unsuitable for high-end applications. To overcome these limitations, Sun Derong and his team sought to innovate the process.
Despite no existing models to follow, they pursued the one-step spinning technology. With the help of engineering academician Jiang Shicheng and collaborations with institutions like Donghua University and the China Textile Science Research Institute, they developed a one-step 24-head spinning process. This breakthrough made them the first in the world to achieve such a system, surpassing challenges once thought insurmountable by companies like Barmag and Hoechst.
The benefits of the one-step process were immediate. Compared to the two-step method, the new technology reduced land use by 46%, plant area by 57%, and energy consumption by 41%. Material usage per ton also dropped by 15kg, and overall production costs decreased by over 1,000 yuan per ton. Additionally, the process achieved breakthroughs in tension matching, fiber structure control, and high-speed compounding, enabling the production of high-value products like PET, hetero-shrink, fine-denier, and ultra-fine denier composite yarns.
Sacrificing Company Interests for Industry Growth
Sun Derong credits the company’s success to strong technical support and investment in R&D. Over the years, Jiangsu Serge Group established several research centers, including the only enterprise academician workstation in China’s textile industry and the National Different Contraction Multi-component Mixed Fiber Product Development Base. From 2008 to 2012, the company invested a total of 67.65 million yuan in R&D.
Process innovation also required new equipment. Unlike the traditional three-set machine setup, the one-step method used a single integrated system. When they first approached Zhongli Machinery for production, the response was cautious. But the equipment not only worked but also led to a surge in orders for Zhongli. Sun Derong recalls that even though they had a three-year protection period, they waived it after just a year due to high demand, contributing to the broader industry’s progress.
Differentiation Drives Competitive Advantage
Sun Derong believes that the one-step method goes beyond just spinning—it creates unique fabrics. The company introduced a new color silk fabric that won the "Best Technology Innovation Award" at the 2012 Chinese Spring and Summer Popular Fabric Competition. These materials are versatile, suitable for both knitting and weaving.
A notable example is the shading cloth that became popular in home textiles. Unlike traditional coated fabrics, Silke’s version uses modified fiber structures to achieve shading without coatings, making it more durable and eco-friendly. This innovation set them apart in the market.
The flexibility of chemical fibers allows for functional and unique products. Because downstream manufacturers lack the exact raw material ratios, imitation is difficult, protecting the interests of innovators. At the 2013 China International Fabric Exhibition, Silke showcased a second-generation one-step spun fabric, drawing widespread attention. Sun Derong said their strategy is to stay ahead through continuous differentiation and innovation.